By Jessamine Lobb
Every day hundreds of people shuttle between Newcastle and Sydney on the Mariyung. The train shares its name with the Dharug word for emu.
Whether you snag an express service or get stuck on the all-stops, here are 8 surprises to make the time fly.
No.1: Danny Lim
If you’re lucky, your odyssey might begin with Danny Lim, an activist in his 80s known for his sandwich board signs. Catch him at Central Station around 9am on weekdays.
Another gem is Listening Lady, who invites strangers to sit and talk with her.
Sometimes you’ll involuntarily become Listening Lady on the train. It could be a heartening story; it could be a conspiracy theory linking credit cards with Satan.
No.2: Mortuary Station
As you leave Central and head for Newcastle, there’s an elegant building on your right. Between 1869 and 1938 it was the terminus for a funeral train carrying the dead and grieving to Rookwood Cemetery.
In the 80s it briefly became a pancake restaurant.
No.3: Human Industry
Tradies glowing orange at dawn. Big telecom towers that would seem spiritual to a caveman. At the Australia Post factory in Lisarow, picture all the hands your parcels pass through.
No.4: Everyday literature
The walls along the trainline are forums of debate. Near Marrickville someone wrote “Aussie Pride”, then another person wrote “…is Genocide”, then a third person painted over both. Look for unexpected poetry in station names. One passenger told me Tuggerah is “hairy gut” backwards.
No.5: Hawkesbury intrigue
About halfway into the trip you plunge into lush forest. Your first glimpse of the Hawkesbury never gets old.
Spot jellyfish and pelicans. Wonder about the people living in waterfront cottages. Marvel at the Woy Woy houseboat with Pink Panther strapped to its mast.
No.6: A song tailormade for your journey
How often is your mundane commute turned into poignant art?
This 2011 song samples the squealing tracks and warbling conductor you hear on the Central Coast Line.
No.7: Interesting subcultures
Observe motorcycle lessons in Adamstown. Maybe that rider is empowering herself after divorce. Maybe that one delivers Uber Eats to afford uni.
On Saturday night, enjoy the post-event buzz when scores of footy scarves and band t-shirts board.
When it gets late, note the people who use the Mariyung as a (relatively) safe place to sleep. The guards let them be. A gesture of dignity.
No.8: Endless little worlds
Suburban mosques, dog washing salons, trampolines, KFCs. Teary goodbyes at the station. A man on the toilet remembering he lives next to a trainline.
The best thing is when a kid waves at your train, and you see them in time to wave back.
Go with an Opal card and an open heart.
Featured image: Commuting to Sydney on the Mariyung can be a real adventure. Illustration: Jessamine Lobb